Unusual ski resort worth exploring ... the views towards Mt Yotei from Rusutsu.
‘IT’S like turning the tap on,” a wise local remarked on the first day on Hokkaido. “It starts snowing and doesn’t stop.” The statistics back it up. Niseko United, the most popular and biggest resort on Hokkaido was covered with more than 15m of snow in the 2014-15 season.
Yep, that’s right, 15m. Rusutsu, a lesser-known resort about a 40-minute drive from Niseko or 90 minutes from Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport, was on the receiving end of 14m. Light, dry snow created by cold air from the depths of Siberia and carried over the Sea of Japan to be unceremoniously dumped on this beautiful volcanic island.
Niseko United has the village of Hirafu, jammed with restaurants and cafes and people; Rusutsu is smaller, less crowded and it has some rather different elements that are not normally found in a ski resort.
There are two sides to Rusutsu; the Rusutsu Resort Hotel and Conference Centre and lift ticket office are at the foot of West Mountain, while the Rusutsu Tower Hotel, 27 floors of all-suite accommodation, is at the base of East Mountain.
Popular with guests ... a dog sled ride. Picture: Supplied Source: Supplied
A stroll around the western base reveals many surprises, not least
being a talking tree, a two-storey carousel, an endless array of shops
and a huge game centre with race car simulators, air hockey and a host
of other games that whirr, click, shrill and bang.For a real hoot, get on horseback at Desperados and help the sheriff shoot all the bad guys.
Walk around past the shops, and you can’t help but notice the magical world outside. Stardust Avenue is a fairyland, with beautiful illuminations, ice and snow sculptures, a quaint wood cabin cafe and a snowpark for kids to toboggan, tube and play.
Further around, pause to watch the regular dancing fountain display. Not quite Bellagio but a hit regardless. A monorail – gaily painted, of course – connects the western base to the Rusutsu Tower Hotel, or if skiing or boarding you can catch a gondola.
Look out the window en route and see a rollercoaster and various theme park rides all covered in snow and ice. They don’t operate in winter but certainly make for good Instagram and Facebook pics.
Lots to do ... the carousel is a real winner with younger kids. Picture: Supplied Source: Supplied
It’s easy to imagine the view from the coaster in summer; the
snow-cover replaced by an exquisite golf course and fields of green.The Rusutsu Tower Hotel is a short walk to the chairlift that whisks you up to the gondola which carries you up to the top of East Mountain.
The skiing here is mainly for beginners, with most people heading from here across to Mt Isola. This is where most of the action is for intermediates and advanced skiers and boarders, with a lovely balance of groomed runs and tree skiing.
Rusutsu is known for its powder skiing, tree runs and excellent lift system. The 18 lifts service 37 trails, with the amount of terrain almost split evenly between beginners, intermediate and advanced skiers and boarders.
Amazing skiing ... the view of Mt Isola at Rusutsu. Picture: Supplied Source: Supplied
Mt Isola has four quad chairs and a gondola, two restaurants – one
called Steamboat after the Colorado ski resort – and is the pick of the
bunch.The runs have names such as Heavenly Spirit, Heavenly Canyon and Heavenly View and when the snow stops, and the sun shines, that view over Mt Yotei really is heavenly.
Yotei can prove to be quite shy – hiding her majestic rim with strategically placed cloud and swirling mist. The longest run is Isola Grande at 3.5km – stick to the sides for some powder stashes.
West Mountain also has some fun runs, but comes into its own with its terrain park and the night skiing. The mountain is open nightly until 8pm and skiing or boarding down the runs, with the lights of Stardust Avenue twinkling in the gloom, is special. After a day on the slopes, enjoy an après ski drink at the Cricket Bar in the main resort, and either settle in for pizza or book into one of the many restaurants.
Way to ski ... looking from the East Mountain towards the theme park and West Mountain. Picture: Supplied Source: Supplied
For a break from skiing or boarding, try dog sledding, snowshoeing,
snowmobiling or horseriding. Kids will want to try out the indoor wave
pool with a 100m-long water slide or give igloo-building a go.There are onsens – hot pools – on site at both properties, but make sure you know the etiquette before you go in.
You have to get naked for sure – a little confronting the first time but, just like the talking tree, you do get used to it.
The author visited Rusutsu as a guest of SkiJapan.com
GO2
Rusutsu
GETTING THERE
Japan Airlines flies to Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport via Tokyo. See au.jal.com
Cathay Pacific flies into New Chitose via Hong Kong. See cathaypacific.com
Rusutsu is 90 minutes from New Chitose, with transfers organised by SkiJapan.com
SKIING THERE
Rusutsu en.rusutsu.co.jp
SkiJapan.com can organise every aspect of your trip to Rusutsu (as well as many other major resorts in Japan) including transfers, accommodation, lift tickets, lessons, hire gear and tours. They can also organise day trips to Rusutsu from Niseko. See skijapan.com or ph 1300 137 411.
STAYING THERE
Rusutsu Tower Hotel has 24 storeys of all-suite accommodation, a couple of dining options, an onsen and many shops. See en.rusutsu.co.jo
HANDY TIPS
The runs are graded green (beginner), red (intermediate) and black (experts).
Japan is much colder than Australia so you will need to make sure you have plenty of layers and good gloves or mittens.
Private lessons can be organised during the day, evening or night and Rusutsu does have English-speaking instructors.
If you visit the onsen, follow the etiquette and you will have to get naked.
Call into the Cricket Bar for a drink after skiing.
Lift ticket prices in Japan are much lower than Australia — at Rusutsu a day lift ticket costs about Y5300 (AUD$55).
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